Skin Contact: 0.6% (extracts, distil)
Non-Skin Contact: No limitations for extracts, dis
Crude gums of American and Asian styrax should not be used as fragrance ingredient. Only extracts or distillates (resinoids, absolutes and oils), prepared from exudations of Liquidambar styraciflua L. var. macrophylla or Liquidambar orientalis Mill., can be used and should not exceed a level of 0.6% in consumer products. This is equivalent to 3% in a fragrance compound used at 20% in the consumer product.
This recommendation is made in order to promote good manufacturing practice (GMP) for the use of styrax derivatives as fragrance ingredients. It is based on a wide variety of RIFM test data with gums, resinoids, absolutes and oils of American and Asian styrax (private communication to IFRA).
"One of the most valuable perfumes of the ancient world"
(Genders, Perfume Through the Ages, Putnam Publishing)
Styrax, occasionally called Storax, is a natural balsam formed as a pathological product in the sapwood and bark tissues of Liquidamber orientalis, a medium sized tree native to Asia Minor and the surrounding islands.
Obtained from both the outer bark (used for incense) and inner bark (perfumery) of the Liquidamber tree. The biblical mention of "sweet storax" was also used in mummification from a smaller tree (Styrax officinalis) which may be a different species (Groom, The New Perfume Handbook, Blackie Publishing).
In any case, this particular Styrax Extra is magnificent. Containing the cinnamon notes attendant with the more refined Styrax, this material is a strong basenote.
Styrax is an excellent fixative. It is highly effective when using in small quantities. Even one drop to 5 mls of a carrier sweetens and holds the more ethereal scents. Styrax is a lovely ingredient to add to Florals. Its vanilla/butterscotch quality enriches blends while retaining its own unique aroma.
One unique use for this material is environmental scents, sachets or boxes. I have a wooden styrax-scented box into which I have written, scrolled and stored affirmations for my guests.
Upon opening up my box, as each person chooses their personal affirmation, a rich ambery aroma wafts through the room, creating a delightful aromatic benediction.
Blends well with:
floral perfumes, e.g. lilac, hyacinth, carnation, etc. Its dry floral note makes it suitable for cassie, mimosa, violet, lavender and fougere, rose, etc. Blends excellently with coumarin and its derivatives , linalool, ylang ylang, jasmine bases, etc.
Caution: Highly irritating to skin. Use in very small dilutions.
S. Arctander - Perfume & Flavor Materials of Natural Origin
Gail Adrian, Fragranceur (201) 444-3628